With growing concern over cruise passenger safety in certain foreign Caribbean ports, Key West is a breath of fresh American air. No unlicensed cab drivers or tour guides screaming for your attention as you leave the port, no violence associated with drug cartels, and no concerns over drinking the water. And one more plus for U.S. citizens: no passport required.
So, while Key West has the makings of a Yankee doodle dandy cruise port, don’t for an All-American minute think it drips with mom, baseball and apple pie. In this southernmost corner of the continental United States, a mere 90 miles from Cuba, it’s more like Ernest Hemingway, sport fishing and key lime pie.
The aspirational phrase of “One Human Family” is Key West’s official motto, but if the community needs a temporary slogan to capture its inclusive and stalwart spirit post-Irma, it should be “Open for Everyone’s Business.” The port welcomed cruise ships only two weeks after the devastating Category 4 hurricane at its historic 130 mph winds pummeled the Florida Keys. Fortunately for the tourist destination, Key West fared better many of its neighbors as landfall on Sept. 10 was 20 miles to the east. Structural damage was minimal, but the colorful city of 23,000 full-time residents still dealt with the loss of electricity and access to clean water. Not that Key West doesn’t have experience making do already; located closer to Havana than Miami, and with just one road connecting it to the mainland, being independent and plucky comes with the tropical territory.
So is being laidback. Visitors wanting a taste of that Key West lifestyle will find it easier than one of the countless “gypsy chickens” that freely strut around town. And while Key West doesn’t judge those who vacation in the slow lane, the beauty of this town is it also appeals to tourists looking for more to do than just nibble on sponge cake and watch the sun bake, to borrow from Jimmy Buffett’s signature song, “Margaritaville,” partially written here. For the in-betweeners, here’s some recommendations:
A fun and relatively easy way to get to these and other points of interest is the Old Town Trolley ($31 adults). Pick it up at any of 12 stops, then hop off and hop on as you wish or stay on to get the full 90-minute tour. Stop 11 takes you to the butterflies and the most obligatory and falsely advertised picture spot in town: the giant concrete buoy that marks the southernmost point in the continental U.S. The true point is on a private island 10 miles farther south, but let’s not share that spoiler with those waiting in line for the ultimate Key West selfie.
Adding in the array of watersports on or in the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico, not to mention restaurants, bars and stores with more character than a Hemingway novel, Key West has plenty to offer the day-tripping cruiser, the week-long vacationer, or whatever duration of stay your little, wanderlustful heart desires.
Check it out at: Florida Keys Tourism Council: fla-keys.com
You paid for your meals when you booked your cruise, yet the upselling of specialty dining packages literally begins the minute you set foot on the ship. Regulars aboard Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Princess and NCL ships have come to expect being hounded early and often – that’s mainstream-category cruising for you. But et tu premium cruise lines?
For much of my recent seven-day Western Caribbean cruise aboard the Celebrity Equinox, it was virtually impossible to avoid a kiosk manned by a waiter/salesperson who by pushing a dining package is basically admitting that the food choices included in your fare are inferior. How aggressive is the hawking of food and drink packages on Celebrity these days? Swear to Poseidon, a crew member was even targeting passengers walking down the stairs during the mandatory muster drill – a first for this now-21-time cruiser.
So, here’s the 64,000-calorie question: “Are Celebrity’s specialty restaurants worth the additional money?”
If you asked me after my 10-day Mediterranean cruise aboard Celebrity’s Solstice-class Reflection, I’d say probably not, and that’s not a slight on the specialty restaurants. Ninety-eight percent of what was served in the main dining room, buffet, Blu (a restaurant exclusive to AquaClass guests) and Luminae (for suite dwellers) was fantastic. The “free” food being so outstanding on Reflection made dining at one of the ship’s six specialty dining venues a nice-to-do.
Upgrading lunches and dinners was often a must-do aboard the Equinox, however. If it wasn’t the coconut-crusted ham and banana-stuffed chicken breast in the Chicken Chiquita tasting rubbery in the Silhouette dining room, it was barbecue sauce overpowered with either A-1 or Worcestershire sauce in the Oceanview Café buffet. At Blu, the lobster tail was overly salty, twice, and flavorless was the plantain soup. Admittedly, these all are “first-world problems.” But when you’re paying more for premium-class cruising, one shouldn’t have to return or pass on five dishes by Day 3.
Putting Your Money Where Your Mouth Is
Like a culinary lifesaver thrown in the direction of cruisers with discerning tastes and standards, it was Murano to the rescue. The guarantee of an incredible 5-star dining experience is worth the $50 per person cover charge. A contemporary twist on French cuisine is served in an atmosphere of unpretentious elegance. Starters include a warm goat cheese soufflé, Wellington-style diver scallops and a Maine lobster bisque that wisely puts the dissolvable dollop of cognac cream on the side. Entrees prepared tableside, always a special treat, include the Dover sole Veronique (who says deboning fish is a lost art?), chateaubriand with béarnaise and cabernet sauce (so good we had it for an encore visit) and the signature Murano lobster, a cognac-flambéed tail with fresh basil, applewood smoked bacon and a Dijon cream that, because I’m not a mustard fan, was substituted with tomato sauce for our return. Save room for the Grand Marnier soufflé and the Les VI Etoiles du Murano, a selection of six distinctive desserts served in shot glasses. Ships with Murano: Eclipse, Equinox, Reflection, Silhouette and Solstice.
Tuscan Grille is an Italian steakhouse that capitalizes on its far bow location with floor-to-ceiling glass windows that line the back of the restaurant. A modern rustic décor enhances a menu featuring 100 percent galley-made pastas, artisanal salumi and cheeses, butcher-cut meats and an extensive Italian wine list. Recommendations: (starters) crispy calamari rings, super-tender beef carpaccio and a gorgeous antipasti board; (entrees) pappardelle with ragu-braised short rib, a European seabass called branzino and the ribeye steak. So large are the portions at Tuscan Grille that we were actually thankful the tiramisu was bland and undeserved of a second bite. Ships with Tuscan Grille ($45 cover charge): Constellation, Eclipse, Equinox, Infinity, Millennium, Reflection, Silhouette, Solstice and Summit.
Sorely missed on our most recent Celebrity cruise was the most unique specialty restaurant in the fleet. Qsine serves up a whimsical “dining journey” that begins with ordering from iPads and ends with picking your own chocolate-covered strawberry from a field of grass strapped to your “tour guide” (don’t call them servers). In between are the shareable courses of tasty tapas you selected, but the order in which they are served is out of your hands. If you order nothing else, get the sushi lollipops dusted with Nacho Cheese Doritos, pulled pork spring rolls (served upright in wire springs), and M’s Favorites, a sample of Mediterranean dishes that comes in an open-air case with 12 compartments. Ships with Qsine ($45 cover charge): Eclipse, Infinity, Millennium, Reflection, Silhouette and Summit.
The space occupied by Qsine on Reflection is home to Silk Harvest on Equinox. The calming qualities of soft Asian décor and matching instrumental music plus a Zen-like staff made this a wise first-night choice for dinner after dealing with unpleasant port workers and a handful of rude Celebrity crew members. Food-wise, Silk Harvest scores with its siracha-drizzled rock shrimp tempura – crispy and zingy – and perfect cream cheese wontons. The rest of our order didn’t go as well. When paying extra, the pad thai shouldn’t be mushy, the chicken satay boring and the orange chicken just plain blech. Ships with Silk Harvest ($35 per person): Equinox and Solstice.
The dining packages peddled ad nauseum do save you money. On week-long cruises, a three-meal package runs $109 and the seven-night “Ultimate Package” costs $199. Depending on the ship, other specialty restaurants on Celebrity can include the open-air Lawn Club Grill ($45) where you can be the grill master; The Porch ($25) for fresh seafood; and Sushi on Five (a la carte prices) that serves up the best rolls and sashimi this side of luxury-category cruising.
If You Go
Celebrity Cruises: 800-647-2251, www.celebrity.com.
(Third of three parts)
Picking out just 10 favorite Mediterranean ports is like choosing only a pound of chocolates at See’s Candies. They’re all so marvelous, orange cream and Marseilles excluded.
We’ve covered Rome, Athens, Naples, Barcelona, Florence and Santorini, in that order, and now it’s time to round things out. So, without further ado, here’s Nos. 6-10 as discovered during back-to-back 10-day Mediterranean cruises aboard the resplendent Celebrity Reflection and remarkable Carnival Vista.
What does the Grecian port of Rhodes have in common with Disneyland? Walk off the ship or through the turnstile and in 5 minutes you can enter a castle-like fortress where fun, food and souvenirs await. Just don’t expect to see Mickey Mouse in Rhodes – hungry feral cats abound within the 2 1/2 miles of 40-foot-thick medieval walls. Look passed the cafes serving pizza and spas where “doctor fish” nibble on the dead skin of tourists’ feet, and Rhodes’ Old Town resembles a bona fide Turkish bazaar – and for good reason: Turkey is just 11 miles away and bound by 300 years of influence.
Exploring Old Town can easily be done on your own and minutes off the boat, but getting to the second-most visited attraction in Rhodes – the beautiful, yet tourist-jammed ancient city of Lindos – requires ample time and wheels since the 35-mile trek each way takes about 45 minutes, longer during peak season that runs April through September. Crowds will also have you deciding whether the Acropolis, site of a temple to the goddess Athena, is worth hiking up a narrow and sometimes thronged and treacherous path. Donkeys can carry you up in exchange for 5 euros and your PETA membership card.
Rhodes is known for its collection of stunning beaches and shapely sun worshippers, so if taking a dip in hot Greece sounds good, avoid built-up Faliraki Beach if you have the time to go farther south to a less-congested shore. Located halfway between the ship and Lindos is Tsambika Beach, which has just enough tavernas serving grub and grog, free Wi-Fi, and lounge chairs, umbrellas and aquatic equipment for rent. The southern end is more serene and where nudists laugh in the face of melanoma.
If visiting Tsambika Beach, Lindos and Old Town sounds like a perfect day, which it was on my return trip there, do it in that order so you’re among the first ones at the ocean, and book a private driver before leaving home. Highly recommended is Taxi Rhodes, which charged 180 euros for 6 hours that began at 9 a.m. sharp dockside and ended with a sas efcharistó and antio – thank you and goodbye – just outside Old Town where we took it from there. Manolis Kiaourtzis couldn’t have been a better and more intuitive driver, guide and representative of this top Mediterranean port.
One could easily spend the entire day within walking distance of the ship in Kusadasi, Turkey. The port’s vibrant and secure shopping center and adjacent retailers are chockablock with such local specialties as carpets, silk pashmina and ceramics. If you’re ever tempted to skip a pre-paid lunch on the ship, this is the place. It’s hard to beat hospitable Guverte Restaurant for seafood (try the grouper), coffee (Turkish, of course) and Facebook-worthy photos of your floating hotel from across the marina.
But let’s talk Turkey: Cruise ships don’t call on Kusadasi because of what’s in and around the port. The emphasis here is Ephesus. Once home to philosophers, gladiators and rulers, the ancient city is rich in ruinous architecture and history, and a fleet of buses parked on the other side of the gangway can take you there in 30 minutes. Nearly every shore excursion offered through the cruise lines includes a visit to what’s considered one of the world’s most magnificent and best-preserved archaeological sites. There’s usually a no-frills 3 1/2-hour-long tour to appease your inner Clark Griswold (think Grand Canyon), and a few with durations of over 8 hours for those wishing to immerse themselves in the Greek Dark Ages to Late Middle Ages of 10th century BC to 15th century AD. Longer tours often include a visit to the House of the Virgin Mary, where the blessed mother of Jesus is reputed to have spent her final years of life. The less devout and gullible will likely deem this add-on a tourist trap. Cynics also may be turned off to the obligatory carpet demonstration that’s usually tacked onto a ship-booked tour. But don’t make a dash for the exit too quickly; learning about traditional hand-made rugs is actually pretty cool if you ignore the high-pressure sales tactics. If nothing else, enjoy the free apple tea.
A dearth of shore excursion options is actually part of the allure of this Greek island, a destination Lonely Planet keenly observed as one that “flaunts its sizzling St. Tropez-meets-Ibiza style and party-hard reputation.” Any nightlife will have begun long after it’s anchors aweigh for you since larger cruise ships are gone by sundown, but a hip vibe permeates even in daytime, as does traditional Greek charm.
Tours of ancient Delos, birthplace of the god Apollo, and shuttles to wonderful beaches get some takers, but most visitors who get off the boat hoof it to Old Town to stroll the narrow streets that lead to boutiques, museums, cafes, pastry shops, churches and a few surprises. Many get flat-out lost thanks to a centuries-old defense scheme designed to thwart would-be invaders. The town is plotted as a maze, and a total whitewash of its buildings plus a street system that would delight Sarah Winchester make navigation challenging even for tourists with GPS. Not to worry – the Aegean Sea or a friendly local will stop you from going too astray.
First impressions of Crete being a loser port are understandable, especially if judging by high Mediterranean standards. Heck, even the cruise lines’ list of shore excursions is mediocre for a place where Hercules once roamed. To this point, the “Best of Crete” tour is highlighted by a visit to the Palace of Knossos that disappoints for being overly restored and lacking in original antiquities. But give the home to Europe’s earliest civilization a chance, because the ho-hum-sounding tours give you a rare, stress-free opportunity to assimilate with the locals.
There’s no easier, cheaper or quicker way to do that than taking the hop-on hop-off open-top busses of Heraklion Sightseeing Tours. For just 20 euros (15 if you buy online in advance or cut a deal with the ticket seller), you’re taken on a loop around Crete’s capital and Greece’s fourth-largest city. Any of the 11 stops is a starting and ending point, technically, but the official one is just off the ship. After quick stops by a medieval fortress and a small, but decent aquarium, consider getting off to truly soak up indigenous culture and color. Pop in a grocery store, where the most unusual items are often in the produce and meat sections. Check out the butcher’s skinned rabbit destined for a Greek stew called stifado. Like dinner, if you’re not in a hopping mood simply stay on the bus and enjoy the multilingual recorded narration uninterrupted; you’ll be back to the ship in an hour.
If You Go
Carnival Cruises, www.carnival.com
Celebrity Cruises, www.celebritycruises.com
Taxi Rhodes, www.taxi-rhodes.com
Heraklion Sightseeing Tour, www.her-openbus.gr
Warm climate. Cultures dating back thousands of years. Exotic destinations known for their food and wine. Luxurious floating resorts that take you there.
What’s not to like about Mediterranean cruising?
Romantic Rome, alluring Athens and navigable Naples were featured in part one (http://bit.ly/2iX6DVn) of our Top 10 list of favorite Mediterranean ports. Now let’s go on a journalistic jaunt to the fourth- through sixth-ranked exceptional destinations that delighted during back-to-back 10-day Mediterranean cruises aboard the resplendent Celebrity Reflection and bar-raising Carnival Vista.
Spain’s second-largest metropolis is the whole package, offering everything you want from a cruise port without need of a shore excursion or private guide. The city of Gaudi, Picasso and Miro doesn’t take an expert to find spectacular sights, superb shopping, a breathtaking beach and fabulous food and drink. People watching also is bar none; Barcelona is blessed with model citizens – meaning so many of its people look like models!
For cruisers, exploring is really as simple as going into town by cab, telling the driver to plop you pretty much anywhere, then walking in any direction. Chances are you’ll fall in love with this luxurious and electrifying port – and its beautiful people – whether you stroll La Rambla, the three-lined pedestrian thoroughfare popular with tourists and locals alike, or the cobblestone-paved old town known as Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter), where Pablo Picasso and Joan Miro once dwelled. No visit is complete without paying homage to Antoni Gaudi’s distinctive style of Catalan Modernism. His work graces the city’s architecturally rich landscape, including at his magnum opus, the Sagrada Familia. Giant cranes have been a mainstay of the inimitable Roman Catholic church for decades – the project was less than a quarter complete when Gaudi died in 1926 at the age of 73. But an international labor of love vows to complete the city’s most iconic symbol in 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death. There will be plenty of toasts with glasses of cava then, but why wait as just a few steps from wherever you are is likely a fantastic tapas bar or café pouring the local sparkling wine that pairs perfectly with the array of small plates ready to be devoured.
The port of Livorno on the Etruscan Coast of Tuscany serves as the gateway to Florence and Pisa for more than 15 major cruise lines. Shore excursion desks keep busy fulfilling passengers’ wishes to discover the area’s famous religious sites.
Most large ships offer a “Florence & Pisa on Your Own” tour, and at $90 for an adult ticket, $80 for children, Carnival’s excursion might actually be underpriced. The reason is you’re being lied to when they say “on your own,” and that’s great! A local escort narrates the 1 1/2-hour coach ride to Florence, then provides directions, maps, tips and other guidance before saying “ciao for now” in Santa Croce Square. The roughly three hours of independent exploring are well spent checking out the Duomo with its cathedral, bell tower and Baptistry, the cherished Ponte Vecchio bridge over the Arno River, the countless leather shops, and the best pasta and gelato within walking distance according to Yelp or Trip Advisor. You’re really on your own if you want to see Michelangelo’s “David” statue at Accademia Gallery, but replicas of the marble masterpiece can be found elsewhere in the old city. From Florence it’s a 1 1/2-hour drive to Pisa for a visit to Miracle Square and its famously leaning 645-year-old tower. Don’t be shy about taking a photo of you trying to right the foundation-challenged bell tower. You’re a tourist!
Whoever said “getting there is half the fun” never went to the Taj Mahal or Greece’s most picturesque, dramatic and tourism-dependent island. India isn’t on the Mediterranean, so we’ll leave the ghastly drive from New Delhi to Agra for another story. As for Santorini, there’s no getting around a tender ride and a 400-meter climb up the cliffs of a caldera to reach Fira, a pretty town in itself, but not as picturesque as Oia a half-hour cab or bus ride northwest. Almost every shore excursion begins in Fira. Your easiest of three options to reach the plateau is a 5-Euro cable car ride with likely long lines (especially coming down). Masochists might prefer a bumpy donkey 5-Euro ride (plus tip) that several people told me is a minor hell or a zig-zagging 488-step footpath that’s free, but also complementary are the aromatic and messy souvenirs left by the aforementioned beasts. Every cruiser who hoofed it by their own power or a donkey’s told me later that they were too tired and sweaty to enjoy the first glimpse of the destination’s famous whitewashed houses and blue domes sparkling under the sunlight. Take the cable car.
Your payoff is a place where a bad selfie background doesn’t exist. Good luck not being photobombed, though; so much beauty attracts so many people. The chalk-white buildings, crawling bougainvillea and dramatic coastline, coupled with interesting museums, churches and boutiques, lure nearly 800,000 cruisers a year, and the locals aren’t too happy about that. A newly imposed cap on ship-arriving visitors has put a small dent on the number of itineraries that include Santorini, particularly during the high season of July through mid-September. But that’s a small inconvenience compared to the benefits to visitors and residents alike.
The spectacular ports of Marseilles, Kusadasi, Rhodes and Mykonos will help us round out the Top 10 next time.
If You Go
Carnival Cruises, www.carnival.com, 800-764-7419;
Celebrity Cruises, www.celebritycruises.com, 800-647-2251;
Visit Barcelona, www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/en;
Visit Florence, www.visitflorence.com;
Visit Santorini, www.visitgreece.gr/en/greek_islands/cyclades/santorini
Depending on the itinerary, a Mediterranean cruise can be the Whitman’s Sampler of journeys. A taste of Santorini here, a nibble of Naples there, a morsel of Mykonos this day and a bite of Barcelona that day. And, in keeping with the candy analogy, like a box of chocolates first-timers never know what you’re gonna get. That is, unless you either do your research or take the advice of those who have.
Having returned from two 10-day Mediterranean cruises within two months of each other, experienced on different cruise lines, I offer my Top 3 ports with recommendations based on personal experience heavily guided by hours of pre-planning and tips from the shore excursion directors of the Carnival Vista and Celebrity Reflection.
Rome wasn’t built in a day, so don’t even try seeing it in a day. Unless the Eternal City is your port for embarkation or disembarkation, about 8 hours is what you may get to explore Italy’s magnificent capital, factoring in the 90 or so minutes it takes to get to and from the dock in Civitavecchia.
When in Rome … must-sees are all bucket list mainstays: the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Trevi Fountain and St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. With so much to do in so little time, let professionals be your guide to navigate with optimum efficiency. Carnival Cruises offers a “Rome at its Best & Inside the Colosseum” excursion ($176) that lasts 11 hours and a lifetime. Other cruise lines provide identical tours by different names. By motor coach and hoof, Rome’s “greatest hits” are explored (the Colosseum and St. Peter’s amply, albeit without a visit to the Sistine Chapel) or given a drive-by, which is adequate for the Forum and the site of Circus Maximus, where the chariot races were held for nearly a millennium.
If visiting Rome is a bona fide once-in-a-lifetime experience for you, consider splurging on a licensed private guide, as I did on the second of my back-to-back Mediterranean cruises. Everything is personalized, from the itinerary to historically accurate storytelling. Eyes of Rome, highly rated on Trip Advisor and now by me, more than accommodated my requests for a top-notch non-smoking guide with perfect English. Katie Farrar, a California-raised ex-patriot, led us on an 8-hour whirlwind of a day that included all the must-sees, including the overwhelming Sistine Chapel, overlooked Parthenon and overrated Spanish Steps, in addition to views and restaurants that weren’t overrun with tourists.
It’s almost sacrilegious not to give even a full day to explore the birthplace of Western civilization, democracy, medicine, literature, theater, astronomy, philosophy, mythology and, oh yeah, the Olympics. Not to worry – as one of the world’s busiest cruise destinations, Athens understands the time restraints a sea-arriving visitor is under. Ground transportation from the port of Piraeus to downtown Athens can be as quick as 30 minutes, even when multiple megaships are freshly anchored.
Checking off the city’s two must-sees – the Acropolis and National Archaeological Museum – can be done with a single excursion booked directly with the cruise line. Carnival offers a 5-hour tour ($100) that comfortably takes busloads to the richest collection of artifacts from Greek antiquity anywhere. From one most important museums in the world to the most important ancient site in the Western world, next up is the Acropolis, the sacred rock of ancient Athens graced by the Parthenon, amazing views and so much more. The climb takes about 10-20 minutes, slip-resistant shoes and a lot of patience on busy days. And they’re all busy days.
Arriving early to the Acropolis helps avoid crowds and the mid-day heat, so it’s wise to choose the first departure if opting for a cruise-booked excursion, as I did on the Carnival Vista trip. Two months later, I booked a private driver through Athens Tours Greece. Four hours for 150 Euros (about $160) is prudent and fair. A 7:30 a.m. pick-up at the ship had us beating the shore excursion busses at the Acropolis, and made the second visit to the National Archaeological Museum a dream. Our driver, who just might be Greek with the name Vassilis Papadopulos, isn’t licensed to give tours inside either major attraction. Most private drivers aren’t in the city, but between your guidebooks and abundant signage in English, a human guide is unessential. Our driver packed a lot into the remaining 90 minutes, including an ominous swing past the capital city’s Syrian refugee camp, a glimpse of Hadrian’s Arch and a stop at the House of Parliament to watch the colorful changing of the guard staged every morning at 11 sharp. He pulled up to the front with one minute to spare. That Papadopulos fella is gooooood.
Pish-posh to tourists who dis Naples for its sprawling grittiness and high rate of petty crime. Just focus on its enthralling side, mind your valuables and become one with southern Italy’s largest city. But if that isn’t possible, get outta town and take a scenic drive to the tony Amalfi Coast.
Activities that were booked for both visits are enthusiastically recommended.
Daniela Ibelo, the licensed tour guide retained through ToursByLocals.com, was given a list of 12 points of interest in advance. Not only did she expertly navigate us through the city to check off each one, all but two via walking, she surprised us with such memorable moments as meeting a master lute craftsman in his shop. So generous was maestro liutaio Giuseppe Manna, he treated us to a private rendition of Italian standard “Funiculi Funicula.” Priceless. Also special were popping into magnificent 14th and 15th century churches on a lark and visiting a depressed part of town to meander through the eerie Fontanelle Cemetery teeming with real human skulls. Caloric highlights ranged from sfogliatella, Naples’ signature sweet pastry, washed down with Neapolitan espresso, of course, to lunch at Di Matteo, considered one of the top places to eat pizza in the city where it was invented. This was the only misstep. Next time it’s Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba or Da Michele. Booking a guide that does not double as a driver will save you money. As a guideline, expect to spend about $300 for an 8-hour tour at that level of service. Up to seven people can tour at this price, so if you’re traveling with family or friends, even those you just met on the ship, you’ll have more Euros for shopping if you get them to chip in.
A favorite shore excursion out of Naples is a drive to the postcard-worthy Amalfi Coast. Big-ship cruise line offers a wide selection of options, several that include the fascinating ruins of Pompeii, which was destroyed by the 79 AD eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. That appealed for the second visit. Good call, too, as the “Exclusive Amalfi Coast, Positano, Sorrento & Pompeii” shore excursion offered by Celebrity was 9 1/2 hours and $355 per person well spent. Going cheaper is easy, but bear in mind that tours that cost about half as much use large buses that can’t reach the quaint village of Positano due to the narrow, windy roads required to get there. Also, a 16-seat coach makes for intimate sightseeing and usually with the better guides and drivers. Splurging also means more time to shop (there’s no “where’s Bob?!”) and an upgraded lunch in Sorrento. The Imperial Hotel Tramontano, overlooking the most beautiful section of the Gulf of Naples, did not disappoint the nine of us gastronomically or aesthetically. Skipping the line to go inside Pompeii also was heavenly, proving that “going small” is huge when touring the Amalfi Coast or Pompeii.
So that’s my Top 3 Mediterranean ports, but please consider it merely a sample of what this amazing region has to offer. We’ll round out a Top 10 next time, covering Kusadasi, Rhodes, Santorini, Florence, Mykonos, Barcelona and Marseilles. A couple of dishonorable mentions also will be thrown in. Sorry Sicily and Crete.
If You Go
Eyes of Europe,
Athens Tours Greece,
Maestro lute craftsman Giuseppe Manna:
Tours By Locals,
Imperial Hotel Tramontano,
Clearly, the Fun Ship 2.0 upgrades Carnival Cruises has been making fleet-wide since 2011 are just a tease for something bigger and better. That something, the freshly christened, bar-raising Carnival Vista, comes to America in November.
It’s indeed bigger; Carnival’s first new ship in four years is the largest in the fleet for both passenger capacity (3,954) and tonnage (133,500). As for better, subjective as that descriptor is, the Vista makes a strong case having on one ship all the Fun Ship 2.0 refurbishments being added to the older vessels, ranging from concept bars and upgraded dining options to inventive entertainment offerings, along with industry firsts among the many new features on board.
At Carnival’s invitation, I checked out the bright, shiny ship one sail after its maiden voyage. Exploring and observing from bow to stern, starboard to portside, here are observations made during the 10-day Mediterranean cruise:
First Impressions: Disconcerting as it was to walk onto a Carnival ship and not be awestruck by towering glass elevators, the three-story, vortex-shaped DreamScape is a grand replacement of the atrium’s signature piece. The HD LED tube changes graphics several times during a cruise, and is just gorgeous. True to its name, the Vista was designed with views in mind; several dining venues have indoor-outdoor seating. Carnival’s fun for all ages reputation is bolstered by new offerings for often underserved older teens and the cruise line’s first-ever raft and watertubing adventure called Kaleid-O-Slide.
Industry Firsts: Carnival has found an innovative way to combine excitement with exercise with its brand-new, no extra cost SkyRide. Created by the founder of Rollerblade, it’s like riding a bike, only you’re pedaling while suspended on a rail above the deck. And the view! Breathtaking vistas are found inside the ship as well on the three-deck-high screen of the first IMAX at sea. The 187-seat IMAX, combined with the intimate Thrill Theater, a separate screen showing exhilarating multi-dimensional, shorter-length movies, makes the Vista the first nautical multiplex. The first brewery on a North American ship also is onboard, offering three craft beers.
From 2.0 to New.0: Besides cool industry firsts, Carnival Vista offers a “greatest hits” of the line’s newest features. SportsSquare, already on the Breeze, Magic and Sunshine, is a fresh and colorful take on such shipboard recreational mainstays as basketball, mini-golf, foosball and ping pong. The equally all-ages SkyCourse, also on those other three ships, is an elevated ropes course featuring two levels of challenge. The best of the Fun Ship 2.0 upgrades are all present and accounted for. Branded bars specializing in rum and tequila drinks, and a cocktail “pharmacy” called Alchemy Bar are popular watering holes, and the best burgers on the high seas come off the grill at Guy's Burger Joint, created in partnership with celebrity chef Guy Fieri.
The Food: Nothing on the ship beats those burgers, not even the surf and turf at the steakhouse, but if your heart is set on trying other fare, newer choices include Seafood Shack, serving up New England-style dishes for an upcharge at lunchtime. On the menu until its gone are fish caught on port days in indigenous waters, and you can even have that fish prepared for that night’s dinner wherever you decide to dine. Dishes representing the region you just visited are part of nightly “Port of Call” specials in the main dining room, and not once did the fish or lamb selections disappoint. While the upcharging JiJi Asian Kitchen and Bonsai Sushi Bar failed to impress due to ill-trained staff and so-so food, what did wow were the premium Fahrenheit 555 steakhouse (grilled double-cut lamb chops were sublime) and Cucina del Capitano that serves up eggplant parmesan, braised short ribs and fried calamari rivaling the best land-based Italian restaurants.
That’s Entertainment: Playlist Productions-branded shows, coming out of Fun Ship 2.0, put an end to cheesy stage shows with dazzling use of LED screens, contemporary choreography and actual music from this decade. Playlist’s newest production, the movie-themed “Flick,” had a triumphant world premiere during our sail. Standards from over 25 movies, including “Titanic,” of all films, are sung and danced to with a mystical bent in Cirque du Soleil style. The talented cast and a live seven-piece Cuban-inspired band kill with “Amor Cubano,” a hot new show featuring a refreshing playlist of Latin and Caribbean numbers. “America Rocks!” the third new show on the Carnival Vista, invigorates well-worn cruise show favorites from the likes of Bruce Springsteen, Kiss and Lynyrd Skynyrd. Even if the songs are tired at least the technical aspects and high-octane energy of the singers and dancers are mind-blowing.
Unique Accommodations: Carnival debuts two nifty “neighborhood” concepts with Vista. Family Harbor on Deck 2 offers staterooms that sleep up to five people and an exclusive lounge stocked with large-screen TVs, games, refreshments and a concierge. Carnival marketing says the new Havana Cabana suites (for guests 12 and older) on Deck 5 will make you feel like you’re staying on an island resort. Believe the hype. The sense of going tropical is complements of special décor, a private lanai and exclusive access to the lively indoor-outdoor Havana Bar that serves complementary Cuban-style food during the day along with specialty coffees and cocktails.
Development Areas: For a new ship with the latest systems available, ventilation inside the casino is surprisingly poor. Exacerbating the problem is the inability to walk around the cloud of smoke when heading from the lobby to key food and entertainment venues on Deck 4. I can’t recall another megaship that doesn’t have an alternative path to circumvent the gaming area. Also, opting against traditional stadium seating in favor of individual chairs, the design of the 1,400-seat Liquid Lounge where the big production shows are staged is problematic. Without stationary chairs, people were configuring rows that essentially created barricades, removed natural aisles and gave some folks no leg room – a potential fire hazard. Also, only the two back rows are tiered and fastened, so line of sight was lousy for all but the very tall and those in the first rows.
Bon Voyage: Carnival’s new flagship will spend the remainder of her inaugural season cruising the Mediterranean before embarking on a 13-day repositioning voyage to New York on Oct. 21. With the ship’s second cruise out of the Big Apple in November, Carnival Vista will arrive at her new home of Miami to offer year-round Caribbean sailings. For additional information, contact any travel agent, call 1-800-CARNIVAL or visit www.carnival.com.
Bottom Line: Over-brimming with novel features and others that improve on the familiar, Carnival Vista sets the bar for the company. Casino notwithstanding, the fleet’s biggest and brightest is a breath of fresh air, and ranks among the best ships this frequent cruiser has sailed.
Ground chuck makes for a delicious burger, but if you’re the type of consumer who will spend a bit more for the quality of sirloin, let me introduce you to premium cruising. I’m assuming you’ve never had the pleasure as only 15 percent of American adults have ever cruised at all, let alone treat themselves to the “better” class of cruise lines in the good-better-best marketing model. After taking 19 voyages on “good” ships, I finally tasted the sweet life of “better” and it was delicious.
What a difference spending 25 percent more makes. That was the takeaway after this self-paying travel writer took a 10-day Italy & Greek Isles cruise aboard the Celebrity Reflection out of Rome. Don’t get me wrong: Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian and other Big Ship-category players generally offer a solid product at economical fares. In fact, the ship, crew and service were so good on the new Carnival Vista in May, at times it felt like premium-class cruising. But on the Celebrity Reflection, with few exceptions, there was zero interruption of excellence.
Celebrity is to Royal Caribbean what Lexus is to Toyota. Premium ships, marketed as a more personalized alternative for an upper-middle-class demographic, are typically smaller, and that holds true here; the 3,046-passenger Reflection is the newest and largest in Celebrity's fleet, yet dwarfed by every Royal Caribbean ship launched in the past decade. The next generation of Celebrity ships is scheduled to debut in 2018, and it has big hulls to fill thanks to the feature-rich Solstice class now gracing many of the Seven Seas. When Reflection debuted in 2012, it immediately set itself apart from its four older siblings with an additional deck, more staterooms and roomier restaurants, lounges and theaters.
Food, Glorious Food
With over a dozen eateries, including six specialty dining venues and a buffet that blows away those on the megaships, going hungry is one activity never on the daily program. Bright and cheery Oceanview Café is a buffet that gets it right, offering sumptuous made-to-order pasta, pizza and stir-fry alongside other international fare. The carving station actually has leg of lamb, and nearby is hand-scooped gelato ranging in flavors from pistachio to tiramisu. We climbed the mountain of shipboard buffets, yet things only went higher from there.
Two-level Opus is the main dining area. Elegance without pretentiousness, a vibe running throughout much of the ship, welcomes all passengers. Like the main dining rooms on less expensive competition, Opus’ menu includes prime rib, salmon, pork chops, escargot – you name it – but the quality of ingredients, preparation and plating is noticeably higher.
Well above average for “regular folk,” dining on Celebrity gets kicked up a notch, along with service, at the two restaurants dedicated to passengers splurging on AquaClass or suite accommodations. For suite guests, Luminae serves breakfast, lunch and dinner in an intimate, opulent atmosphere. The gourmet selections and slightly lower density of the table configuration are appealing. Blu, open for breakfast and lunch, befits the AquaClass brand by serving spa cuisine that is appropriately portioned, high in quality, taste and flavor, and nontraditional. Breakfast selections include a smoked salmon and asparagus frittata, and for dinner, it’s out with heavy béarnaise and in with a truffle vinaigrette on cuts of tender steak. Not all is perfect in Blu, however. One evening’s dessert menu contained a misprint: It said the to-die-for Café Pot de Crème has no sugar added. Yeah, I’ll believe that when I see Nacho Cheese Doritos on my sushi.
Of the Reflection’s specialty restaurants, the most unique is easily Qsine ($45 cover), serving up a whimsical “dining journey” that begins with ordering from iPads and ends with picking your own chocolate-covered strawberry from a field of grass strapped to your “tour guide” (don’t call them servers at Qsine). In between are the shareable courses of tasty tapas you selected, but how they come out is out of your hands in this guided journey. When the effervescent Nathan scampered to our oceanview table, bringing with him a tray of signature sushi lollipops, I pointed to two of them that were dusted with some sort of orange powder. “What’s that?” I asked. “Nacho Cheese Doritos,” he replied. They were incredible. So were the pulled pork spring rolls served upright in springs, and M’s Favorites that comes to your table in an open-air case with 12 compartments, each containing a sample of Mediterranean dishes.
Other specialty restaurants of note include the posh Murano ($50) for a contemporary bent to classic French cuisine, the Italian steakhouse Tuscan Grille ($45), the open-air Lawn Club Grill ($45) where you can be the grill master, The Porch ($25) for fresh seafood, and Sushi on Five (a la carte pricing).
Put Down the Fork
In between meals are many non-caloric ways to get your fill, starting with the impressive array of entertainment. “Broken Strings” is a standout production show, featuring a talented, tireless and attractive cast singing and dancing to music from this actual decade – a rarity on cruises. Mainstage shows still feature a live band, and consider yourself fortunate if trombonist Mike Daigeau is your cruise’s band director. The affable “Big Mike,” who just left the Reflection for a new contract on the Celebrity Silhouette, is a three-time Grammy winner with a crazy-impressive resume. Cruise director Sue Denning is no slouch, either, having got her start as a teen singing star in the U.K. and as an adult performed in movies alongside such A-listers as Michael Caine. On each cruise she performs a one-woman show that even Millennials were heard raving about the next morning. Catering to a more adult demographic, evening entertainment includes Liquid, more a theme than a show, transforming the usually tranquil Solarium sanctuary into a Miami Beach-style nightclub complete with DJ, pulsating music and seductively costumed eye candy in and out of the pool. Who ordered the hot mermaid?
If You Go
Through at least spring 2018, Celebrity Reflection is making Italy and Florida home. Six months of 7-day Caribbean cruises out of Miami begin on Nov. 5, then she returns to Rome for Mediterranean itineraries of 10 to 15 days from May to October 2017. Reflection resumes service in Florida, this time Fort Lauderdale, in November 2017 with a range of itineraries to the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America. Information on staterooms and bookings is available by calling Celebrity Cruises at 800-647-2251.